J Targosz | 20 May 2024 |
Whilst replacing the diff pinion oil seal I noticed one of the rear wheel bearings had a stiff spot. I removed it and cleaned it with boiling water and a dish washer tablet (in an old pan not the dishwasher). I have found this gets bearings perfectly clean and they dry almost immediately. After a spray of WD40 I could still feel the tight spot and the bearing rattled when shaken. The one from the ... |
paulh4 | 20 May 2024 |
My understanding is that the unboosted dual systems need to be centralised after bleeding by redoing the opposite side to the last one done until the light just goes out. For boosted dual systems partially unscrew the switch and that allows the shuttle to self-centralise during bleeding.
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GuyW | 20 May 2024 |
True Arie. My own fault, but without a battery , , , , ☹️ |
A de Best | 20 May 2024 |
If only youve driven the Austin Sprite once in a while you then wouldnt need to get engine out now.... ;) |
William Revit | 20 May 2024 |
Tom
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Thomas McNamara | 19 May 2024 |
I am having trouble bleeding the rear brakes after replacement of the shoes. After some reading, I checked the P.D.W.A. and found that the switch itself is shorted and the shuttle "O" ring(s) are leaking. John Twist say just put in a short bolt to stop the leak and forget about it. Now the question; What happens to the shuttle? Does it need to be removed? If it is blocking the rear brake line... |
George Butz III | 19 May 2024 |
Great point Steve. If the regulator is stuck so full charge, something could fry. Again, start with fully charged battery, if the battery is really run down it could correctly charge at 20 for a while. Fully pegged definitely would be an issue. Try cracking the gas cap open, if you have it too well sealed pump could be sucking and making a vacuum. George |
Steve Simmons | 19 May 2024 |
I wouldn't drive the car if the ammeter is pegged. It's asking for burned wires. Try cleaning the points in the control box and see if that fixes it. If not then it will need to be calibrated. It can also do damage to ignition parts. A friend with a TC just had a similar issue with overcharging at 17 volts and the symptoms were as you describe. |
GuyW | 19 May 2024 |
Jan, I've just been reading the WSM, which is what I followed pre internet days. And although not quite explicit the implication is that the bearing cap does need to be removed. As Dave said. So my faulty memory. Sorry! |
George Butz III | 19 May 2024 |
Try a new coil, type that does not require external ballast resistor. Amazing one that old works at all, and may well fail when warms up. Must have new red colored rotor. Many condenser failures too. Make sure the battery is fully charged. If still showing a 20A charge, the regulator needs adjusting. Clean the points in it as well. George |
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1957 MGA COUPE | |
Body off rust free car. 1800 cc. Five main at .060 over, Burgess fast road head and cam, alternator, high torque starter, header with 2 exhaust, Hoyle coil over front suspension, High Gear Engineering 5 speed gearbox, B front spindles with Wilwood four piston calipers, 75/100 watt tripod headlamps with relays. Black with black interior. Paint is base clear with some stone chips as I drive the c... |
1957 MGA COUPE | |
Body off rust free car. 1800 cc. Five main at .060 over, Burgess fast road head and cam, alternator, high torque starter, header with 2 exhaust, Hoyle coil over front suspension, High Gear Engineering 5 speed gearbox, B front spindles with Wilwood four piston calipers, 75/100 watt tripod headlamps with relays. Black with black interior. Paint is base clear with some stone chips as I drive the c... |
MG'S FOR SALE | |
Large selection of quality MGB, MGB GT & Midgets. |
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